I had no expectations when I went to Otavalo. I knew about the market on Saturdays but that was it. I took a bus there on a Friday afternoon so that I could visit the market on Saturday and had plans to head back on Sunday. It’s about a 2-hour bus ride or so from the Carcelen Terminal in northern Quito.
In my head I had made Otavalo out to be a bit of a shanty town with run-down buildings, dirty streets, and sketchy alleyways. I have no idea where I got this image from. If I never actually went there, I would’ve carried on with this ignorant opinion that Otavalo was a dump.
Now, my friends, from the bus terminal in Otavalo to the hostel that I was staying at was maybe a 10-15 minute walk. On this short walk that revealed the town to me, the stupid smile on my face just kept on growing. The town was beautiful, clean, and full of life. Nothing like I had anticipated.
The town is full of little shops, most of them selling clothing and footwear, restaurants and cafes, and hawkers selling fresh fruit, desserts, and all sorts of snacks. It’s a charming little town that is surrounded by breathtaking landscape. The Otavaleños walking the streets in their traditional dress amplify the charm level. Part of me wants to grow a braided ponytail and wear a top hat.
Almost everyone comes for the Saturday market. I did the same. But the town won me over and I stayed more than a week. Here’s what I found to be the top 7 things to do in Otavalo.
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1. Visit the Saturday Market
The market is without a doubt the highlight of the town. It’ll run every day at the Plaza de Ponchos, but on Saturday the market’s overflow spills out onto the cute streets surrounding the plaza.
They say on Saturdays that this becomes the largest outdoor market in South America. Could be true but it seems like a tough thing to measure. I found a sweater that I really liked and told the vendor that I’d come back after I looked around and saw everything else.
After I decided I wanted to buy it, I was walking around the area where I thought he was for like an hour and a half trying to find him again. It’s pretty easy to get lost in there.
You’ll probably notice that there are a lot of vendors selling a lot of the same things. They’ll all claim that it is made locally, but you start to wonder how true that is. As well, they’ll all tell you that what they’re selling is alpaca wool. I had a good chat with the vendor I ended up buying from and he told me that items made from alpaca are going to cost upwards of $50 or $100. They say it’s alpaca, but it’s just made in the alpaca style. Nobody is buying an alpaca sweater for $10.
There are many textiles available of all makes, models, and colours. You’ll also find a food market separate form the rest of the market in the far corner form where you’re likely to arrive where you can sample all sorts of traditional Ecuadorian dishes.
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It’s a colourful, vibrant place to be on Saturdays and even if you have no intention of buying anything, it’s worth the exercise to just walk around the stalls taking in all the activity.
2. Cuicocha Loop
This is a 4-5 hour hike that does a complete loop of the crater lake on the slopes of the Cotacachi Volcano. There are two islands that live inside the lake, making for great photos and even better views as you walk around the rim.
This was the first hike that I did in Ecuador. I thought I was accustomed to the altitude but oh man was I ever wrong about that. It feels like more than half of the hike is uphill, and with the equatorial sun at high altitude this loop whooped my ass. I completed the hike in one piece, just a bit tired but that was the best I felt for the next couple days.
I was dehydrated and woke up in the middle of the night not feeling great. I had to make a mad dash to the toilet and spew out my supper. I felt drained for the following two days, hardly getting out of bed.
That being said, the hike was worth it. Take plenty of water and sun protection. If you’re acclimated to the altitude it shouldn’t be much more than good exercise. The path is extremely well laid out and there is virtually no threat of getting lost.
Take a bus from Otavalo to Quiroga, and from there you’ll have to take a taxi to the starting point of the trail. Grab your driver’s number so that you can ring him when you’re finished to come grab you.
3. Lagunas de Mojanda
Regrettably, I didn’t do this hike. After my pathetic showing following the Cuicocha hike, I wasn’t so keen to get back out into the elements for an even bigger jaunt. I can’t give you much reliable information for this hike other than it is further from Otavalo than Cuicocha and takes a longer time to complete. There are 3 lakes that you hike around on this trail.
I think the views of Mojanda, if you get a clear day, would supersede those of Cuicocha. But I’ll have to go back there to find out for myself. Mojanda seems to be the marquee hike in the area.
4. Peguche Waterfall
Within walking distance from the town centre you can make your way to the Peguche Waterfall, or Cascada de Peguche. I wasn’t exactly sure where the entrance to it was and followed a small path that had a sign pointing to the cascada. This is more of a backdoor entrance. To find the main entrance you’d just follow the main road to the point where you hit the park entrance. It’s borderline unmissable.
The back entrance, which you’ll come across first if you are walking from Otavalo, takes you through a small village, passing through a forest abundant with eucalyptus trees (which I thought only grew in Australia), and across a rickety suspension bridge (don’t cross the first one you see) before joining up with the main trail.
The area surrounding the falls is very lush and calming. There is a small village beside the falls where Andean music can be heard playing from speakers that enhanced the experience. I love the sounds of Andean music and the pan flute.
You can follow a path to the right that takes you up above the falls and through a small crawlspace/cave to what looks like the perfect high school make-out spot. The whole area is very serene and well worth a half-day trip from Otavalo.
5. Parque Condor
I didn’t make it to Parque Condor, but if you are a bird lover and especially if you want to see the great Andean condor up close, this is the place to go. The park rescues birds from illegal trafficking and rehabilitates injured animals. Primarily, the park features birds of prey.
It’s not far from Peguche. Combine the two activities and call it a day.
6. Simón Bolivar Park
The streets of Otavalo are fun to walk around aimlessly, and you’re bound to find some activity at the Simón Bolivar Park whenever you go. The church is lit a luminescent blue at night and makes for an impressive backdrop to the park.
During the day you might find a bit of a market and vendors selling different varieties of food.
7. Plaza de Ponchos
During the day this is where the large market is held. There are a handful of bars surrounding the plaza though so at night this might be the ideal spot to find a drink. There’s an Irish pub, at least one craft beer spot, and the pies from Shanandoa Pie Shop are supposed to be incredible. I can’t speak to their quality, never tried them, but I’ve read and heard about them a lot.
Conclusion
There you have it. The top 7 things to do in Otavalo. Go for the Saturday market, stay for the surrounding nature. It’s a cute little town that offers enough to keep you entertained for up to a week. I stayed at the Flying Donkey Hostel. It’s nothing state of the art but the owner Patricio is incredibly kind and welcoming. He makes you really feel at home. I believe I was paying about $9/night for a private room, shared bathroom. It’s a comfortable place that had me extending my stay night after night.
If you’ve got time to spare, Otavalo and the surrounding area will take your breath away. Literally, the hikes are high altitude and Cuicocha kicked my ass. Happy trails!
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