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Loja (pictured above) and Vilcabamba.
I didn’t stray too far from the conventional backpacker route in Ecuador. I hit the mainstay stops of Quito, Baños, Cuenca, and Montañita.
The easy backpacking route in Ecuador takes you from Quito down through the Andes to Cuenca, and then west to Guayaquil and up the coast. Maybe there’s a little stopover in the Galápagos or Amazon, but most travelers follow something similar to, or the reverse of, the path I mentioned.
That said, if you´ve got the time I have a few good reasons to extend your trip south of Cuenca: Loja and Vilcabamba.
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Loja: The Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador
When I think about all the places I visited in Ecuador and consider where in this country I’d like to live, Loja would make the short list.
Gun to my head I’d probably settle on the coast somewhere but of all the Andes settlements I saw, Loja seemed the most livable. The city just had a homy feel. Big enough to have everything you need, small enough to not be overwhelmed, and plenty of public parks and squares that breathe life amongst the brick and mortar.
Add to this the fact that Loja is Ecuador’s music and arts capital, and has a picturesque setting amongst the Andes, and it makes a pretty strong case for itself. I didn’t get a chance to properly explore its music and arts prestige, but it gives me a good excuse to go back.
On the day I arrived I stumbled across some sort of colada morada festival in the main square. There were maybe 100 tables set up lining the perimeter of the square, each one selling their take on the traditional Ecuadorian drink. It’s nice. It tastes like a warm red sangria without the alcohol. It’s quite soothing.
Walking around the center of Loja, it kept revealing interesting little areas to me. It wasn’t just square blocks of buildings that extend to the suburbs. There were parks, plazas, squares, markets, and recreation areas around seemingly every corner.
Perhaps it was because I had heard nothing about Loja before visiting and had no expectations to be met, that I was pleasantly surprised. Whatever it was though, something about the city connected with me.
There’s a good vibe in Loja, and if there was somewhere in inland Ecuador that I had to call home, this would probably be it.
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Vilcabamba: The Valley of Longevity
They say there is something in the water in Vilcabamba. This little mountain town is known for having some of the longest living residents in the world. Whether it’s the water, the climate, or the wholesome diet, residents of Vilcabamba are supposedly leading healthier lives than the rest of us.
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Located about an hour’s drive south of Loja, surrounded by mountains and on the doorsteps of Podocarpus National Park, Vilcabamba has one of the purest water sources in the world.
Glacial lakes flood the tundra region and lush vegetation flourishes in the rainy season. The water is naturally filtered by untouched flora before cascading down waterfalls until it reaches the “Valley of Longevity”.
The town has only been connected to the rest of Ecuador in the past few decades via road construction. And apparently this has allowed the residents of the valley to live their lives relatively uninfluenced by innovation and technological advancements until recently.
All of the farming in the area was done without the use of pesticides, GMOs, or additives. The fresh fruit that grows naturally in the valley is abundant and delicious. Many residents of the valley live a life without consuming meat or animal products. I’ve never met so many fruitarians as I did in the valley.
If you come to this town though, don’t expect to find the magic of the valley on display. It’s a pretty sleepy village, although close to the main square you can find some hip cafes and restaurants catering to the visitors that the valley’s mystique allures.
It’s pretty normal to see people smoking weed in the streets and just passing the day in the town square.
I arrived at the start of the “Day of the Dead” celebrations at the end of October and found a packed town square with people sitting around sipping on a beer and/or burning one down.
I immediately found it odd that for this many people in a Latin American gathering, there was no music blaring and it was relatively calm. I had the impression that maybe everyone had eaten weed brownies.
But this is just the vibe of the town. I was treated to some impressive cultural dances in the evening to mark the celebrations but other than that, I assume not a whole lot happens in Vilcabamba. There is a draw to that.
Among the longtime residents you find a smattering of older expats, younger hippies, and other Ecuadorians all who have been enchanted by the valley. Maybe they are in pursuit of its supposed long-life properties, or perhaps they just want a more relaxed vibe.
I see the draw, but the town was just a bit too slow-paced for me. That being said, if I got comfortable and stayed for maybe two weeks, I think I’d find it extremely difficult to leave. The pace of life could engulf me, and I can easily see why people get ‘stuck’ here.
Aside from just enjoying each other’s company and smiling the days away, Vilcabamba offers some incredible landscape. There are quite a few hikes to do in the area, chief among them in my opinion is the Izhcayluma Loop.
Mountain peaks, waterfalls, abundant flora and fauna, and good vibes are what’s waiting for you should you venture south of Cuenca.
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