June 17, 2022
Leon was the first place I stayed in Nicaragua and after the brief border crossing and bus rides to the city, it was my first impression of Nicaragua. I’m still trying to put my finger on exactly what it is I love about Nicaragua, but a big part of it is cities like Leon.
It’s one of those cities where I found myself repeatedly extending my stay. The plaza, the nearly crumbling churches, and the murals and memorials of a storied past all draw you in. The city is very affordable and, much like the country, if you give it a chance, you’re bound to start seeing the beauty in it.
It got to the point where I was looking at apartment rentals in the city. If it weren’t for plans I already had in Costa Rica or Panama, I might have stuck around a few months. The only major drawback for me about the city was the blistering heat.
Leon is often compared with Granada, as these are the two large, colonial cities in Nicaragua. Granada is more polished, more refined, and more pleasing to the eye. Leon, more rustic, more raw, more real. I really enjoyed them both and honestly couldn’t pick between the two which one I preferred.
Overview of the City
Cathedrals, old buildings, heat, history, and of course, volcanoes. This is Leon, Nicaragua at a glance.
The city sits about 20km inland from the Pacific Ocean in the northwestern corner of Nicaragua, not far from the Honduras border. Leon was once the capital of Nicaragua and is sort of known as the political and intellectual hub of Nicaragua. UNAN in Leon is the second oldest university in Central America.
There is a both fascinating and heartbreaking history to Leon, with students at the forefront of it. If you’re interested in history and the words Sandinistas, Contras, or Somoza don’t ring a bell, you’ll know all about them after a visit to Leon.
History of Nicaragua
In a quick summary, the Somozas were a family who held a dictatorship over Nicaragua from 1936-1979. In 1979, they were overthrown in the Nicaraguan Revolution by the Sandinistas (FSLN). The Sandinistas were a socialist movement by the people of Nicaragua fed up with the Somoza family.
It was not a peaceful transition, and a lot of blood was shed. It’s estimated about 10,000 people were killed in the fighting from 1978-1979. The Somozas were armed and supported by the United States. The Russians, in response, sent weapons to the Sandinistas to help them fend off the imposing U.S.-backed dictatorship.
The Sandinistas ended up victorious and assumed power. Shortly after, the U.S. founded and financed what is infamously known as the Contras, a smattering of counter-revolutionary armed forces in Central America. They wanted to suppress any socialist movements or governments opposed to American ideology and American corporate interests.
The war against the Contras lasted from 1981-1990 and resulted in about 30,000 lives being lost. The U.S.-backed government assumed power in 1990 after a contested election. Most Nicaraguans believed the war would never end if they re-elected the Sandinista government, and the only way to peace was succumbing to the American wishes.
The former Sandinista, Daniel Ortega, has since resumed power after being re-elected in 2006, but his rule has been marred by controversy and corruption. Now, largely unpopular, Ortega has formed a sort of dictatorship, silencing or killing all opposition.
That is my very brief recount of the past 100 years of Nicaragua. Leon was at the centre of a lot of the fighting throughout the 20th century, and acknowledgment of this past can be seen by memorial plaques, murals, and museums in the city centre.
How to Get to Leon, Nicaragua
If you are coming from anywhere within Nicaragua, you can find an affordable bus heading this direction at almost any time of the day. I usually just show up to the bus terminals and find the next bus to my preferred destination.
If you are little more picky about comfort, you can also find more comfortable, premium buses. These will leave less frequently, however, so you’ll probably want to find the schedule ahead of time.
If you are coming from El Salvador, I highly recommend taking the boat to Nicaragua. I have a detailed post outlining exactly how to do this, linked above, and how to get to Leon from various cities in El Salvador. You’ll save a lot of time and headache by taking the boat.
There is an international airport in Managua, but flights into Nicaragua are quite expensive. You are probably best off to fly into Costa Rica or El Salvador and then can take a comfortable, luxury Tica Bus into Nicaragua for about $35.
Things to Do in Leon, Nicaragua
1. Museo de la Revolución
I’m very interested in political revolutions, especially movements coming from the people. This museum will give you a lot of history and first-hand accounts of the fighting and uprising that occurred throughout Nicaragua but more specifically the events that happened right there inside the museum and on the streets out front (the building was the Communication Headquarters for Somoza before being taken over by the Sandinistas).
The museum itself isn’t visually inspiring but the building comes to life with the help of a guide, included in your entrance price ($3-4USD). Your guide is most likely to be a former Sandinista who fought in the war against the Somoza dynasty and the Contras. He’ll probably point out pictures of his younger self in the museum and tell you stories of the friends and family he lost during the time. It’s a moving experience.
It’s likely that the guide will speak Spanish, and very little if any English. If you don’t know Spanish very well, I’d recommend finding a friend who does that can help translate for you. There’s a lot of information and stories you don’t want to miss.
2. Cerro Negro – Volcano Boarding
This is probably the most popular tourist activity. For about $30-35 USD you can get transported to and from a volcano, suited up in a Walter White meth lab suit, and provided a sandboard.
You climb up the volcano and then slide back down on the board. It’s pretty cool to slide down the side of a volcano but be prepared for the heat of the day and the wind atop the volcano. And of course, be prepared to get covered in sand.
3. Flor de Caña Rum Tour
One of the most famous rums worldwide is produced just a short drive from Leon. You can do a tour of the facility and see the process from sugar cane to bottling. It’s only $10 for a tour and you’ll get to sample some rum as well. You can organize transport through a tour agency or find a bus going to Chinandega, the rum factory is about halfway between Leon and Chinandega.
In my opinion, any of the rums they offer aged less than 7 years are kind of crap. But the 7 year and up is where you start to appreciate the liquor. Salud!
Pair your rum with an exception from the world renowned cigar region of Estelí, Nicaragua.
4. Free Walking Tour
Cities that have a lot of history often have incredible free walking tours. Leon is one that you’ll want to take advantage of. It’s not only a terrific way to get acquainted with the city on first arrival, but a great way to learn about the history.
Walking tours are usually advertised as free, but they are funded on tips. It isn’t mandatory, but you should leave a little propina if you found the tour valuable and your guide helpful.
5. Visit the Cathedral
They say it’s the biggest cathedral in Central America. If you’ve seen other large cathedrals, it’s size isn’t crazy impressive, but it is a beautiful place to catch in pictures and to walk through.
For 110 Cordobas you can go up on the roof. This will give you the best sunset view in all of Leon.
6. Telica Volcano Overnight Hike
Nicaragua is littered with volcanoes – it’s part of what makes their soil so fertile for the growing of coffee and tobacco. You have a few options for volcano hiking around Leon. Tours to Telica offer an overnight camping experience that allow you to wake up with the sunrise on top of a volcano.
You can do the hike without a tour as well. You can pretty easily get to the summit of the volcano by driving most of the way, but the overnight hike gives you a proper workout and incredible reward. Plus, how many times have you slept on a volcano before?
Places to Eat
You’re not going to find a lot of the bougee food options that you might in Leon’s sister city, Granada. That said, in Granada you aren’t going to find as many of the street food cookouts that you will in Leon. So, for my taste, Leon trumps Granada for food.
Pan & Paz
This is the one ‘chic’ spot I have listed here. It’s a French bakery that has a lovely courtyard. I visited with a French traveler, and she approved of the baguettes and other pastries here, so this spot lives up to the hype.
Buffet Las Delicias
This is a great lunch spot. They have different dishes on offer every day and the prices are great. The fresh juices are also incredible. If you want local food in a comfortable restaurant setting, Buffet Las Delicias strikes the right balance.
The Food Truck Alley
If you stare at the arch that is the entrance to Parque de la Merced on the West side, and turn to around to your left, you’ll see a block full of different food trucks where you can find delicious and cheap food. It’s mostly full of burger joints but you can find some Mexican food and other varieties as well.
I recommend the chicken burger from the La Pequeña Lulu. It´s based on the kids show Little Lulu if you remember that at all.
Barbecue on the Street
This was my favourite spot to go for dinner. Nicaraguans are great at barbecue, and to me they had the best food of all the Central American countries (although I miss El Salvadoran pupusas).
If you walk around to the back of the large, white cathedral in the central plaza and cross that street, you’ll see some ladies cooking up barbecue and a variety of other food options. The food here is incredibly delicious and very affordable.
Places to Sleep
If you are a budget backpacker looking for hostels, you have plenty to choose from. If you are looking for a bit more of a party vibe then look into Bigfoot Hostel, Poco a Poco, or ViaVia.
If you want something a little more laid back with a great free breakfast, go to El Jardín hostel. I stayed here and just kept on extending until I was there a total of probably 10 days or so. The coffee is particularly good, the free breakfast is filling, and they have a lovely little garden out back (hence the name) where you can hang out and meet other travelers, relax with a book, or take in the sun’s rays.
If you are looking for something a bit more private and upscale, my apologies. I was on quite the shoestring budget during my time in Nicaragua and didn’t experience any of the luxury offerings.
Final Thoughts
I love Nicaragua, and I loved Leon. It’s too hot, but it’s worth a visit. I even stumbled across a guy wearing a Winnipeg Jets hat! He thought the team was from Managua but I had to tell him no, no, that’s Winnipeg! That’s my hometown ice hockey team.
I know that doesn’t speak to the quality of the city or anything, but it was interactions like this in Leon that left a very fond memory for me. Leon, and Nicaragua more broadly, I hope to be back one day.
If you have any questions or want to get more travel ideas, you can find me on Instagram.
thank you for making this article very useful and keep up the good work