It’s my 3rd or 4th time in Guadalajara, I’m not sure. But my first time being back after the whole Enrique fiasco that ended about a year and a half ago (you’ll hear a touch about my nightmarish ex-roommate below). That horrid experience didn’t turn me off the city though. I like Guadalajara — there’s an edge to it.
Guadalajara: The Good
The food is fantastic, the culture is strong, and the women they say are the most beautiful that Mexico has to offer. And I agree. In full honesty, the men are pretty good looking here too, maybe that’s why there’s a strong gay community in Guadalajara. It’d be a great place to be bisexual in my opinion.
Avenida Chapultepec is lined with restaurants and inviting bars that tempt you by the sights and sounds of the pub. It makes you think that just one beer couldn’t hurt, but we all know where that goes. The side streets that branch off of Chapultepec are more of the same which makes it a very fun neighbourhood to hop around at night. And as the nights go, on Chapultepec all roads lead to Bar Americas. It’s not even that great of a club but for whatever reason it’s a local treasure. I think mostly because it’s always open.
Tlaquepaque is another can’t miss for more of a something-for-people-of-all-ages night scene. Walking around the plazas and pedestrian corridors of Tlaquepaque is uplifting as you approach all of the bizarre, impressive, and sometimes funny street sculptures. There are plenty of street vendors ready to serve you up any of a number of regional favourites like tejuino, cantaritos, or nieve de garrafa. If you want a more substantial sit-down meal, you have plenty of restaurants in the area that will be more than happy to satisfy your appetite or quench your thirst.
The historic centre is also breathtaking. The 16th century cathedral with its twin yellow spires overlooking the city are a beautiful landmark for whenever you can’t find your way, and the walkability of the centre is what I love most. There are a lot of spaces downtown where vehicles can’t go. It’s wonderful for walking with your head swiveling in all directions to see the beauty of the buildings with no threat of being run over.
Mercado Libertad is also a must-visit. You’ll find anything and everything there for a hell of a price. And, you’ve got to try a torta loca from the ground floor of the food court there. It’s massive, it’s messy, but my god it’s delicious.
Day trips to Tequila, Lake Chapala, or any of the charming small towns in the region are an added bonus to Guadalajara’s location.
Guadalajara: The Bad
But there’s an edge to the city, and I like that. Is it safe? Well, mostly, but you need to keep your wits about you. Walking around at night is okay in some neighbourhoods and a stupid decision in others. If you’re acting dumb and careless it’s just a matter of time before someone takes advantage of you and you suddenly find your pockets a little lighter. I walk a little taller and with a bit more purpose when I’m in Guadalajara. I also tend to listen to more hip-hop. I guess I feel a bit more gangster when I’m in the capital of Jalisco.
All that said, as long as you’re not being an asshole/dumbass, you’re going to be fine. I’ve stumbled home drunk many a time and never had an issue.
I think the edge here comes from the size of the city (there’s an element of danger in almost any city of 5+ million people) and the presence of the cartel. Cártel de Jalisco Nueva Generación (Jalisco New Generation Cartel) is one of the two largest cartels in Mexico, Sinaloa being the other, and it is headquartered in Guadalajara.
It’s not something you really ever notice, though. It’s not like the cartel members walk around wearing t-shirts or uniforms that identify their line of work, but if you’re ever in the club and notice a couple of men at a VIP table surrounded by astonishingly beautiful women, it’s best to keep your distance. At the very least I wouldn’t hit on those women.
Guadalajara: The Ugly
The cartel scene in Guadalajara, and Mexico for that matter, is largely behind closed doors. It’s not something you notice walking down the street and you’d be forgiven for thinking that the police must have eliminated the cartels. They haven’t, and they won’t. And a sober reminder of that usually comes every few months when bodies turn up at a random house or there is a shootout with police not too far away. There’s a dark side to the city and the country, but that dark side usually remains in the shadows. It’s an unfortunate reality in Mexico.
It’s a lot different for locals who grew up around it and may have been affected by cartel activity in some way. I can’t exactly speak to that, but as a foreigner you will likely never be exposed to it. I used to be roommates with a Mexican cocaine addict (that is a long, and unbelievable story), and once I went with him to one of the cartel houses in Guadalajara that sells cocaine. I waited in the lobby with this neck-tattooed badass motherfucker who was likely some low-ranking runner in the cartel while Enrique did his thing. We didn’t speak, but he seemed nice enough.
Police come to do regular patrols of the area but the police are paid and they tip-off the cartel members before they come. Runners in the street yell out rojo (red) when the police are approaching and all illegal activity shuts down for 15 minutes until the police leave. When the coast is clear again you’ll hear shouts of lonches (baguette sandwiches, I don’t know why) and the operations are back up and running. It’s a courtesy to the police, really. The police don’t want to see something and be forced to act — it wouldn’t go well for anybody. So in exchange for allowing the cartel to do their bid, the cartel salute the police by shutting down shop for fifteen minutes every few hours. It’s a fascinating dynamic.
This activity, I can tell you, happens in the area of the city close to Plaza de los Mariachis around the street of Insurgentes. I’d avoid this street, or only walk down it once if you’re curious. It’s dodgy, for sure. The Plaza de Los Mariachis is fine, but once you start drifting in behind there you’ll notice the change in scenery.
All of that said, Guadalajara is still my favourite city in Mexico, and I often ponder living half-time here while I wait for the winter to blow over in Canada. There is a strong expat community, some beautiful cathedrals, plazas, and you can even take in an authentic Mexican wrestling event called Lucha Libre which I highly recommend to anyone.
The city has a younger vibe, there are many artisanal breweries, and more coffee shops and taquerias than you could possibly ever try. So, if you’re thinking about visiting Guadalajara, I’d say it’s 100% worthwhile. Just remember to keep your chin up and shoulders square.
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