When I arrived in Pisac I was captivated by its charm. After a few nights though, I couldn’t leave fast enough. It’s a beautiful town with colourful, rustic alleyways and cute boutique cafes. It’s perfect for a day trip from Cusco.
It was on my 2nd day in Pisac that I noticed something weird about the town. There are so many vegan restaurants and organic stores – and I’ve never seen so many ayahuasca offerings in one place. It was then that I realized what had been in front of my eyes the whole time – hippies.
Pisac is full of hippies. They’re gentle and mostly broke, but they’re everywhere. Some are easy to spot but others you don’t recognize until it’s too late. They start telling you about their breathing circle and you begin looking for the closest vehicle to throw yourself in front of.
Look, I got nothing against hippies. I flirted with that lifestyle when I went shoeless in Australia for a few weeks to ‘get closer to the earth.’ My beef with the hippies in Pisac is that there are too many of them. It’s a small town set amongst beautiful landscape but the hippies have taken over, and they’ve come from all corners of the world.
The town has lost its authentic charm. It has become a breeding ground for people that brush their teeth with charcoal and a stronghold for fruitarianism. It doesn’t feel like Peru, and that’s what I didn’t like about it.
All that said, the town is charming to visit and the Incan ruins are worth much more than the 1-hour visit they are given by 1-day Sacred Valley tours. You’ll see about 20% of the ruins that way – and you’ll miss what I thought was the best part. A full hike through the various ruins will take about 5-6 hours depending on your pace and how long you spend exploring each site.
It’s a beautiful place to visit, and still worth it despite all the harem pants.
Thinking of doing the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu? Here's all you need to know.
How to Get to Pisac
From Cusco
You will find all the vans going to Pisac on Puputi Street. It’s not a big street and there are many different companies going to Pisac from here. It costs 5 Soles and takes about 45-60 minutes. The vans go when they’re full so look for one that’s nearly full and you’ll be on your way.
From Urubamba
You can go to the bus terminal on the West side of town and catch a van from there for 5 Soles. Or, go to the main highway and stand on the Eastbound side of the road (the opposite side of the road of the town) and flag down one of the vans heading that way. It will say Pisac in the windshield, or you can just ask the driver and he’ll say get in (sube) or he’ll say no and drive off.
From Ollantaytambo
To the best of my knowledge there is no direct link from Ollantaytambo to Pisac. You’ll have to first go to Urubamba and then follow the process above. To get to Urubamba just head to the main plaza and ask the drivers about Urubamba. They’ll point you to the right van.
Visiting the Pisac Ruins
There are 15 official sites to see as you make your way up the trail, but I’d put the number of significant sites at like 6 or 7. It’s really a beautiful hike, and a shame that most people miss out on it when they come for their 1-hour visit.
Where Does the Hike Start?
To get to the start of the hike, head all the way up Manuel Prado Street. You’ll see a big sign marking the start of the trail.
Does it Cost Anything to Enter?
To enter the trail, you’ll need the boleto turistico. You can buy one on the spot for 70 Soles and it will include Moray, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero but it will only be valid for 2 days. If you plan on staying in the Sacred Valley for longer than that, you’re best to buy the 10-day pass for 130 Soles that includes all of those sites and 11 more around Cusco.
How Difficult is the Hike?
I like to rate things out of three – easy (1), tiring but doable (2), and gringo killer (3). I’d rate Pisac a 2/3. It’s a lot of uphill climbing but it’s something that anyone should be able to do.
Is There Somewhere to Buy Snacks/Water?
There may have been a lady selling food and drinks, but I don’t recall. Anything you want to eat or drink along the way you should bring with you. There isn’t a shop anywhere to buy things.
You will see a few ladies selling bracelets and other handiwork in a spot or two along the way. After seeing how they make them, I couldn’t resist and bought a blue and gold bracelet.
Tips For Doing the Pisac Ruins Hike
For starters, bring sunscreen and rain gear. There is not a lot of coverage from the elements while you’re out there. I suppose you could take refuge in some Incan ruins if worse comes to worst.
As for the trail itself, when you start the trail you will see a map. That map can look very confusing and leave you with even less of a clue where you’re supposed to go. The actual trek is less confusing than it looks.
I think it’s best to hit all the ruins at the beginning while you are still excited and full of energy. You can then bypass them all on your way back with the faster trail.
It’s not super well marked the trail, but it would be tough to get lost. The bigger worry would be that you miss some of the sites along the way. I found 2 spots on the trail where I was sort of unsure of which way to go. Below I’ve got some pictures of those spots and which way to take.
Here, you want to go down to that bridge and cross the river, heading up the terraces on the other side.
When you get to this point, going straight across the terrace will fast track you to the final two archeological sites, but you’ll miss some other sites along the way – including my favourite one. Take the stairs to your left instead.
When you take the fast track back at the end, you’ll come across that terrace.
That’s pretty much it for tips. It’s a beautiful hike and the ruins are impressive. Enjoy!
Where to Stay in Pisac?
If you plan on spending the night, you have plenty of options. I stayed 3 nights all at the same place. There are some cheap hostels ($4/night) outside of town in the hills, but I wanted to stay closer to the centre.
I stayed at Colores Apu Linli in a private room for 35 Soles per night. I can recommend the place. I don’t think they have any dorm rooms but the price includes an exceptional breakfast.
Where to Eat in Pisac?
There are plenty of hip restaurants and cafes in Pisac. For me though, I’m always a fan of the local spots. I’ll have pizza on hangover days but otherwise I just like to eat at local restaurants, or picanterías.
My recommendation on this front would be a little family-run spot on the main street that wraps around the town. It doesn’t have a name, or didn’t when I was there, but it’s closer to where the road takes a left turn, and it’s on the side of the street that the bridge is on. If you cross the bridge and turn right, walk a couple blocks, it’ll be there on your right-hand side. Let me know if you find it! It’s 6-7 Soles for a complete meal, and they have great food.
Pisac Market
I don’t have tons to say, it’s an “artisanal” market that leaves you wondering how artisanal it really is. There are certainly some great things to see here, and it’s worth a 30-minute walk around, but I’m not going out of my way to say you need to come here.
Final Thoughts on Pisac
It’s a beautiful town that would make a wonderful day trip from Cusco. I’d recommend staying one night here so you can do the ruins hike, walk through the quaint streets, and visit the market without being too rushed (or too sweaty from the hike).
Who knows, you might fall in love with the town and quit your job to hang out with all of the other bracelet makers. Happy travels!
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